While Christmas spirits may have already fizzled out in your neighborhood, a lively holiday celebration is just cranking up in Cajititlan de los Reyes, a backwater village situated on the shores of Chapala’s nearby sister lake.
Colorful festivities honoring the legendary Wisemen of the Orient – the little town’s spiritual patrons – are expected to draw more than two million pilgrims between December 30 and January 7. Maintaining religious customs that date back more than three centuries, the faithful arrive in droves to get up close and personal to the nearly life-size mezquite wood statues of Gaspar, Melchior and Balthazar, known collectively as Los Santos Reyes (Holy Kings), all on personal missions to seek divine favors or give thanks for those received.
In Mexico’s religious culture, devotion to the Wisemen represents the mysterious quest guided by the star of Bethlehem, following the path to the light of the Messiah.
A variety of intriguing customs have evolved among the pilgrims who travel to Cajititlan from far and wide in hope that some of the Magi magic will rub off and better their lives.
Visitors file through the doors of the 18th century stone-faced parish church to cozy up to the figures of the Kings, handing over pieces of clothing and other personal belongings to church assistants who are on hand to brush them against the regal robes. Many come toting infants dressed up in tiny satin capes and paper crowns, a sign of faith that prayers directed through the Reyes Santos help their offspring fend off illness and enjoy robust growth.
Entire families parade into an adjacent chapel for an extra dose of divine protection. Huddled tightly, they duck together while the sacristan clasps three capes donned by the Kings in previous celebrations years to quickly sweep of the royal garb over their heads.
A nearby altar is used as a depository for hand-made paper crowns, miniature cardboard treasure chests, snapshots and votive candles left as tokens of appreciation for answered prayers.
The ample atrium just outside the church is the site for continuous performances in tribute to the Three Kings. Throughout the fiestas, this is the spot where danzante troupes dressed in colorful Indian garb gather to perform ritual dances and costumed pastoral players act out stories drawn from scripture and religious tradition.
Surrounding streets are filled vendors hawking religious trinkets, typical foods, spirits and all sorts of other merchandise. Popular eatables include gorditas (corn dough patties stuffed with savory fillings), fresh-baked breads, gorditas de nata (sweet wheat cakes made with fresh cream and baked on a flat grill), juicy sugar cane stalks and other seasonal fruits. Temptations for the sweet-tooth include unique regional goodies such as zual, a cinnamon flavored paste made of toasted amaranth seeds wrapped in corn husks to form sausage-like strings, and ponteduro, a concoction prepared from toasted corn and pumpkin seeds. The crowds also encounter the usual onslaught of fireworks, blaring music, games and mechanical rides for fun-lovers of all ages.
The festivities peak on January 7 when the Wisemen are carted out of the church for a long procession through the village. Departing at around 10 a.m., the entourage winds through the main streets where the devout dip down on their knees as the holy images are carried above them. The parade continues to the shoreline of the Laguna de Cajititlan where the Kings are boarded on a trio of motor boats for a festive cruise around the lake. Once the nautical pilgrimage docks on dry land the cavalcade wends its way back through the throng towards to the church.
Cajititlan lies about ten kilometers off the Guadalajara-Chapala highway, accessed from the well-marked turn-off about halfway between Chapala and the Guadalajara airport.
Visitors should be prepared to leave their vehicles at one of the many parking lots located on the outskirts of the village. Good walking shoes are recommended for safely navigating cobblestones on the hike through the sprawling street fair wrapped around the center of town.
| < Prev | Next > |
|---|
