Guadalajara Reporter - So! What’s the best Tequila?

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So! What’s the best Tequila?

Written by David Ruiz

Thursday, 02 October 2008

David Ruiz: How to select the best Tequilas

My response to those wanting to find the “best tequila” usually starts with a question: “Do you really want to know the truth?” I ask, then wait for the enthusiastic response. The stage is now set for my favorite subject – tequila.

In order to understand tequila, everyone first needs to know its key words. The first, and some would say the most important, new word is “agave,” a spiny succulent plant from which several types of distilled spirits are made. Tequila, then, is made from the Tequilana Weber variety of agave also referred to as agave azul or blue agave. The Tequilana Weber variety used for the making of tequila is only grown in and around the Mexican state of Jalisco, meaning that true tequila can only be made there.
Now, let’s add a little complexity to the tequila -- there are two categories and six classifications of tequila. The first category is “tequila mixto,” made from 51% agave and 49% other sugars, while the other, “100% Agave,” is tequila made only from pure agave sugars. Tequila mixto is primarily made for the export market and is shipped to the United States, the largest customer, in tanker trucks at 55% alcohol content. Mixto tequila is sometimes purchased from multiple distilleries and can vary in flavor. When the mixto arrives at its destination, it is then diluted with water, processed to improve the flavor, and then finally bottled to be sold for consumption in perennial favorite mixed drinks like margaritas.
Tequila mixto is available on your store shelf in two classifications -- white and gold. Gold tequila is white tequila enhanced with flavor and color. Who knew that a little caramel coloring could add five dollars to the price of a bottle?
100% Agave tequila, on the other hand, is made from pure agave sugars and has four classifications or types. Blanco or white, comes straight from the still and is bottled in a pure state. Reposado, or rested, is mellowed in oak barrels for a period from two to twelve months, allowing the oak barrel to mellow the tequila and add a hint of oak and a light golden straw color. Reposados are the preferred tequilas in Mexico and are used for shots and in mixed drinks. Añejo, or aged, tequilas mature in oak barrels from one to three years and are for sipping. Añejo varies depending on the length of time in the barrel and the type of barrel used, has a golden to amber color and a complex structure. Finally, Extra Añejo, is aged for longer periods, as its name implies. Some Extra Añejo tequilas can spend up to ten years in oak. Extra Añejos are full bodied with deep color and complex flavors and are best enjoyed sipped from a crystal goblet in the company of close friends.
There are approximately 120 Tequila distilleries producing over 900 registered brands. Of those, over two hundred are brands sold only outside Mexico. Recently, there has been an increase in unregistered brands, due to changes in recent international treaty law, Unregistered brands are registered in the country they are sold in but not necessarily in Mexico, thus avoiding the quality standards established and monitored by the Tequila Regulatory Council or Consejo Regulador del Tequila (CRT). If you have a question about a specific tequila brand, the CRT posts current brand information on their web site www.crt.org.mx.
Each distillery must be registered by the Mexican government and is subject to Official Mexican Standards regulations (Normas Oficiales Mexicanas or NOMs) Each distillery is assigned a NOM number, consisting of the letters NOM followed by a four digits. This number is the code for the distillery that made the tequila. Most distilleries produce multiple brands, with some making as many as thirty brands. Therefore, it’s not unusual to find multiple brands on your store shelf made by the same distillery, with distilleries that make a specific tequila not necessarily owning the brand. Brands owners are various firms that buy tequila to sell under their brand name. That’s how you can get grocery store-brand tequila in half-gallon plastic jugs.
One more area to consider when selecting tequila is STYLE, that group of distinguishing characteristics that make a tequila unique. An example is “Tequila Suave,” or smooth, which has been charcoal filtered to reduce harshness and is often termed “ladies tequila.” Colored tequilas have also recently entered the market, so that you can now buy black, blue, green, and red varieties. I prefer my tequila natural. Another style is artesian or boutique tequilas, marketed as made in traditional ways using old methods. Make sure the distillery is really using traditional methods. Estate bottled tequilas are also becoming available -- the only problem is that no one regulates how the category is defined. “Certified Organic,” on the other hand, often means a real, verifiable certification and can taste pretty good.
To make a long story short, to choose a good tequila, you have to be an informed consumer. The answers are printed on the bottle labels. First, select only 100% Agave tequilas. Then, check that the label states that the tequila is made and bottled in Mexico. Note the brand name: if it unknown to you, look for the brand owner and importer, listed on the back label. Check the distillery NOM number. I prefer distillery brand tequilas, those that are both produced and marketed by a distiller. I also avoid colored, flavored, and otherwise altered tequilas. After that, it comes down to packaging and price.
By, now, you’ll have narrowed your selection to a select group. If you are still uncertain, it’s time to do a little more research. Ultimately, the best tequila is the one you like the best.
(David Ruiz is a tequila industry consultant, lecture, instructor and tequila coinsurer based in the heart of the Tequila region of Mexico. David conducts custom tequila tours and training seminars for bartenders and industry professionals and can be reached through his web site TequilaTours.com. Or email him at david@mexicob2b(dot)com)