Guadalajara Reporter - Mexico's patriotic culinary delight

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Mexico's patriotic culinary delight

Written by Megan Smith

Wednesday, 06 August 2008

In kitchens around Mexico, the appearance of late summer pomegranates and walnuts sets mouths to watering, a sure sign that the season has arrived for that most patriotic of dishes: chiles en nogada.

A rich and savory combination of meat and fruit-stuffed poblano chiles covered in creamy walnut sauce and topped with pomegranate, chiles en nogada has an unpretentious sophistication that endears it to lovers of both down-home cooking and haute cuisine.

The dish is a seasonal specialty around Independence Day at many of Guadalajara’s best restaurants and much sought after by local gourmands.

“People start calling us in May to find out when we will be serving chiles en nogada. We have to wait until the pomegranates are ripe and walnuts are available. There is a lot of anticipation,” says Lilian Chavez de Ramos, owner of Los Itacates restaurant in Guadalajara, where chiles en nogada is served from July through October.

The red, green and white color scheme of chiles en nogada and its seasonal association with Independence Day is no coincidence. Legend has it the dish was created in 1821 by Pueblan nuns (those divinely inspired pioneers of fine Mexican cuisine) at the behest of Emperor Agustin de Iturbide, who wanted a dish that honored Mexico’s independence and flag.

But it’s the dish’s extraordinary flavor that has stood the test of time.

“There is something very special about this dish. It is sweet and spicy at once and the flavors combine in a unique way,” says Chavez, who has been preparing chiles en nogada for 27 years in what she calls the “authentic way.”

Passed down for generations and around the country, the recipe varies from kitchen to kitchen. But Chavez scoffs at the idea of using anything she says is “non-traditional,” such as candied cactus fruit (acitron) or ground beef.

“For us, the only way is to use cubed pork and fresh fruits. This is the tradition and it is the best.”

Whatever the recipe, preparing chiles en nogada is a time-consuming process not suited for fans of Rachel Ray-style, 30-minute meals. But, as Chavez points out – if chiles en nogada weren’t worth all the effort, she wouldn’t serve them.

“This is a dish that will never be pre-packaged and sold in the freezer section at the super,” says Chavez. “It is a homemade dish – completely.”

Los Itacates (Av. Chapultepec 110) isn’t about to divulge the secrets that make its chiles en nogada the “best in town.” But the Reporter has a reliable recipe that will add some seasonal spice to your September festivities.

Traditional Chiles en Nogada

Soak walnuts and almonds in milk for several hours or overnight to soften them before making nut sauce.

INGREDIENTS FOR CHILIES & FILLING: 8 large poblano chiles, cut once lengthwise, seeded, charred and peeled; ¾ kilo (750 grams) pork back (lomo de cerdo), cubed; 1 small white onion, finely chopped; 2-4 cloves garlic, minced; 6 tomatoes, peeled and finely chopped; 4 tbsp butter; ¼ cup brandy; 1/3 cup dry sherry; 1 tbsp granulated chicken bouillon ; 2 apples, 2 pears (or 2 quince) and 3 peaches, peeled, cored and chopped; 3/4 cup large black raisins; ¾ cup pine nuts or peeled almonds, chopped; 3 small sticks cinnamon; 1/2 tsp ground nutmeg; 1/2 tsp ground clove; salt and pepper

METHOD: In a large frying pan lightly sauté the onion and garlic in butter. Add pork and brandy and flambé. When brandy has burnt off add the sherry, bouillon, tomatoes, fruits, raisins, nuts and spices. Simmer until fruits are soft and liquid has cooked down, remove cinnamon sticks, drain excess liquid and set aside mixture to cool.

INGREDIENTS FOR NUT SAUCE: 1 cup blanched almonds, softened in milk; 3 cup shelled walnuts (or pecans), softened in milk; ¼ lb soft goat cheese (queso fresco); 4 tbsp brandy; ¼ cup sugar; pinch of ground cinnamon; milk.

METHOD: Liquefy all ingredients in a blender adding milk, sugar and brandy slowly until sauce has a semi-thick, smooth consistency. Set aside at room temperature or chill in refrigerator.

INGREDIENTS FOR BATTER: 1/4 cup flour; 6 eggs, yolks separated from whites; 3 cups frying oil; salt

METHOD: Fill prepared chiles with meat mixture. Beat egg yolks lightly with electric mixer. Beat egg whites separately until peaks form. Slowly fold whites into yolk mixture so as not to lose volume. Sprinkle in salt to taste. Heat oil in a large frying pan. Lightly flour the outside of each chile, shaking off excess. Submerge each chile in egg mix and fry in oil until golden brown. Remove and dry excess oil on paper towels. Let cool until slightly warm. For garnish use 1 1/2 cup fresh pomegranate seeds and 1/3 cup cilantro or parsley, chopped. Place chiles on serving plate and pour sauce over the chiles. Sprinkle pomegranate seeds and cilantro over plate and serve slightly warm or at room temperature.